Distance: 18.39 miles
Ascent: 426 metres
Duration: 5 hours 43 minutes
Seatown
« Fraserburgh | Portgordon »
Today's been another long day of road walking, but hopefully it'll be the last such day this week. In fact, it was nearly entirely roads with only the first couple of miles out of Gamrie offering anything like enjoyable walking.
Most of the coastal settlements along this stretch of coast are made up of multiple distinct communities. In almost every case there will be a cluster of houses packed right up against the beach called Seatown. The architecture is distinctive: low one-and-a-half storey stone houses, gable-ends presented to the sea, seemingly constructed in a slightly haphazard arrangement on whatever land was available.
Harbour Road in Gamrie leads to Seatown, and it'd be another nerve-racking drive for those foolish enough to try it, just like in Crovie. Eventually the road ends at a car park and the path drops to the delightful beach, at the far end of which a path leads up to the old kirk.
Gardenstown has at least half a dozen churches but St John's Kirk was the first. On a section of the harbour wall is the painted declaration "God is love".
The path up the hill had suffered in the storms earlier this year, and coupled with the overcast windy weather and the experience of walking through Seatown it's easy to see how much faith was a comfort to those living here.
Past the kirk we were on roads to Macduff, but thankfully mostly with good visibility. A cycle track between Banff and Whitehills provided a little relief. Downies of Whitehills has a fresh fish counter but we passed by without purchase.
Then onto the roads again — albeit quiet local ones this time — before the final descent into Portsoy. The harbour at Portsoy looks charming but we didn't explore much; we were keen to get back to the cottage and besides, we'll be here again tomorrow.
Notes for future walkers:
All contents copyright © 1999-2016 Paul and Emma Bennett