Coastwalk , Isle of Anglesey Coastal Path

Holyhead → Trearddur

Distance: 11.7 miles
Ascent: 349 metres
Duration: 4 hours 35 minutes

Holy Island
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On this twelve mile walk all of the excitement was compressed into a three mile section near the beginning, but first we had to get out of Holyhead.

Previously, we'd been very disparaging of this town and while that opinion remains broadly unchanged, today's optimistic sunlight gave it a hint of hope. Almost as soon as we started walking from St Cybi's church we got chatting with a lonely elderly widower who - after pointing out that he wasn't homeless - was keen to tell us of his plans for the day. Twenty yards further on, the snoring of another man laid precariously on a wall resonated round the churchyard. A mile out of town the path started to climb. It nearly reaches Anglesey's highest point but at only 220 metres' ascent the going isn't too tough. From the flanks of Holyhead Mountain the views back across Holyhead Bay were beautiful but limited by the haze. However the vast breakwater was clearly visible, winding its mile and a half out to sea, constructed from the very rock of the mountain we were standing on.

Further on we reached the highlight of the day: after a stunning mini ridge walk, the brilliant white lighthouse on South Stack island came into view far beneath us. We had intended to descend the hundred metres to cross the bridge to the island but felt that down there lay only an anticlimax; nothing could top this view.

With about five miles walked the remainder of the day was decidedly boring. Initially we crossed open heathland reminiscent of the Suffolk coast, then later joined the lobster-red tourists laid out on the string of beaches that precede Trearddur Bay.

Near the start of the walk we saw a monument erected in gratitude to Charles, Prince of Wales. At Trearddur his son and fiancée have recently named a new lifeboat but there was no sign or acknowledgement. Is this how the monarchy has fallen from favour in fifty years?

We'll see in a week's time when this "local couple from the island" get married. It's a shame they didn't chose to use St Cybi's.