Coastwalk , South West Coast Path

Kingswear → Brixham

Distance: 12.3 miles
Ascent: 823 metres
Duration: 5 hours 39 minutes

Don't forget
« Torcross | Torquay »

They say that the stretch of coast round the Kingswear Peninsula is the most beautiful in Devon. I can imagine that. But today we've had more than enough to distract us from the scenery.

Let's start with the rain. (It always does.) Waterproof jackets helped but when the drizzle's spent a day carefully coating the long grass that lined the path, waterproof trousers were far more important. (We forgot them.)

And then the map. Be sure to know where you're going. The path is easily followed, but when tiredness and dampness sets in you'll find yourself literally walking in circles. Inner Froward Point may have been well worth a detour but that wasn't our plan when we found ourselves climbing back up to the watch station rather than progressing to the next headland. (Hint: the watch station have a great detailed map that'll help you out of this maze.)

The sun threatened to reappear as we approached Brixham and with it came the holidaymakers. As the tide slowly filled the swimming pool on the prom, two shirtless holidaymakers took a new approach to fishing. Holding their nets across the inlet pipes they pulled more than their fair share out the water.

Coastwalk , South West Coast Path

Brixham → Torquay

Distance: 8.54 miles
Ascent: 318 metres
Duration: 3 hours 24 minutes

The Riviera
« Kingswear | Shaldon »

The highlight of our annual fortnight's family holiday at Gran's in Teignmouth was always the fair. For seven days they'd fill the grass between hotels and prom with all kinds of exciting rides and machines.

Today's walk took us along the prom in Paignton and - what would you know? - the fair was in town. Not the fair of my childhood though. The big wheel, waltzers and dodgems were replaced by JCBs, silage trucks and mobile document shredding vans.

For the elderly folk lining the benches of the prom however, their 99 Flakes were far more interesting than the Chartered Institution of Wastes Management Exhibition. Paignton's not quite the Riviera I remember.

Coastwalk , South West Coast Path

Starcross → Exmouth

Distance: 11.1 miles
Ascent: 211 metres
Duration: 4 hours 2 minutes

The Estuary
« Teignmouth | Budleigh Salterton »

Back in 2001 when Jez and I walked from Teignmouth to Exmouth the seasonal ferry across the River Exe wasn't running. Today's walk filled in that gap, replacing the boat trip with a walk up and down the estuary.

The west bank was far more enjoyable than the east. The going was easy past Powderham Castle deer park, then further upstream along the towpath of the disused Exeter Canal.

Opposite the village of Topsham modern communication met an old way of life. A notice by the path gave the mobile phone number of the ferryman whose "Aye, I see you" response was reassuring and warming as the rain began to fall.

Between Topsham and Lympstone there is no path to speak of. The casual coastwalker would do well to hop on a bus to avoid three miles of major road but Lympstone itself should not be missed. The jumble of streets and alleyways lead down to the sea where residents had hung their laundry to dry in the breaks between the drizzle.

The path into Exmouth is currently under major reconstruction. When complete this will be a real gem. I hope they find a way of continuing it north to Topsham.

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Priorities

More than one person has asked what happened to the frequent posts to this site.

Truth is, we've got rather a lot on at the moment. We're surrounded by boxes, physical and emotional. Much to unpack, much to throw away.

But we're getting there.

Priorities have shifted for a while but we'll be back soon.